Metal Guide
INTRODUCTION
Precious Metals
Gold, silver, platinum and palladium are precious metals, they are rare metallic chemical elements and are less reactive than most elements. They have high lustre, malleability and resistant to corrosion, in their purest form the metals are too soft to make into jewellery, they are alloyed with other metals to make them stronger and more durable.
Non Precious Metals
Aluminium, copper, tin, zinc, nickel, iron.
Alloys
Brass, bronze, steel, pewter.
What is an alloy?
An alloy is a mixture of more than one type of metal. The synergistic properties of metal elements preserve and enhance characteristics such as colour, strength, flexibility, hardness and resistance to corrosion.
One of the first alloys made by humans was bronze, a mixture of copper and tin, an alloy has superior properties to those of the individual metals.
Know your Karats and Carats
Karats
A karat is a unit used to measure the purity of gold, each karat is 1/24th of the whole.
24k gold is 99.9% pure gold (24 parts of gold).
18k gold is 75% gold and 25% alloy of other metals (18 parts gold with 6 parts of other metals).
14k gold is 58.3% gold and 41.7% alloy of other metals (14 parts gold with 10 parts of other metals).
Carats
A carat is a unit of weight for gemstones. One carat equals 200 milligrams (0.200 grams).
Silver Measurements
Silver is measured by percentage, sterling silver is 92.5% silver combined with 7.5% of other metals such as copper.
TYPES OF METALS
Bronze
Silver
18k Gold Vermeil
14k Yellow Gold
14k White Gold
18k Yellow Gold
18k White Gold
Nickel Free
None of our metals contain nickel to minimise allergic reactions.
Symptoms of an allergic reaction would cause your earlobes to itch or leave a red rash on your skin where your skin is in touch with the metal. This can sometimes occur with rings, due to constant contact with your finger, perspiration, water, soap and hand cream. All the residues become trapped under the ring causing discolouration and irritation to the skin. With necklaces a rash may develop on your neck.
If you have sensitive skin and prone to allergic reactions you may find that 14k or 18k gold jewellery may be more suitable for your skin type.
BRONZE
Bronze is an alloy consisting of copper, tin and other metals.
We have made our own bespoke alloy bronze to create a flattering warm golden tone.
History of Bronze
Bronze was formed 4,000 years ago in Great Britain which characterized the Bronze Age, it is one of the oldest alloys first created using copper and tin. Traditional Bronze is known as True Bronze which is made from copper and tin. Modern bronze often consists of other metals and non-metals to make it stronger and more durable.
Qualities of Bronze
With its warm golden tone, bronze is more easily accessible and affordable alternative to 14k or 18k gold. Bronze is ideal for creating large statement pieces due to its malleable and durable properties.
We have created our own blend of bronze which is not plated or lacquered. Bronze is strong, malleable, durable, easy to clean and very hard wearing. To ensure that your bronze lasts for many years to come, follow our jewellery care guide.
Caring for Bronze
Bronze jewellery will naturally tarnish (oxidise) over time depending on exposure to extreme temperatures, humidity, sunlight, chemicals and other factors. Tarnishing is a dulling which naturally occurs when bronze reacts with sulphur or hydrogen sulfide in the air. Tarnish is most easily removed when it first becomes visible. The simplest way to remove tarnish is by using a micro fibre cloth or a silver jewellery polishing cloth.
Acidic Skin PH Balances
High acidity levels in your skin may cause your skin to react with bronze or silver jewellery, this is due to the presence of sulfur/sulfides and amino acids in perspiration. The acidic nature of your sweat can cause discolouration to your skin and/to your jewellery. This may result in your skin turning green or black colour, which can be easily wiped off.
Cleaning your jewellery frequently should prevent this reaction. You can also apply a layer of clear nail polish on the inside of jewellery that irritates your skin, this will form a defensive barrier and prevent reaction to the alloy. Reaction to high acidity levels in your skin is not a manufacturing fault.
If you have sensitive skin and prone to allergic reactions you may find that 14k or 18k gold jewellery may be more suitable for your skin type.
SILVER
Sterling silver or 925 silver is an alloy of silver, 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals usually copper.
Fine silver or pure silver is 99.9% silver, it is generally too soft for use as jewellery or for everyday applications, other metals are added to make it more resilient and stable.
History of Sterling Silver
Dating back to the time of primitive man, silver has been referred to by many different naming conventions. The story of how the word “sterling” was incorporated into the name is rooted in 12th-century lore. As payment for English cattle, an association of eastern Germans compensated the British with silver coins dubbed “Easterlings.” Eventually, the Easterling was widely accepted as a standard of English currency. The name was ultimately abbreviated to “Sterling,” which is now used to refer to the highest grade of silver metal.
Qualities of Silver
The whitest of all of the precious metals, sterling silver has been heralded for centuries for its highly lustrous finish and versatile applications. Although harder than gold, sterling silver is still considered one of the more pliable and supple metals. Its malleability makes silver easy to hammer and mould into various forms and shapes.
Caring for Silver
Silver jewellery will naturally tarnish (oxidise) over time depending on exposure to extreme temperatures, humidity, sunlight, chemicals and other factors. Tarnishing is a dulling which naturally occurs when silver reacts with sulphur or hydrogen sulfide in the air. Pure silver 99.9% does not tarnish due to oxidation. Chemically speaking silver is not very reactive, it does not react with oxygen or water at normal temperatures. It is the other metals in the alloy, usually copper that reacts with the oxygen in the air. Tarnish is most easily removed when it first becomes visible. The simplest way to remove tarnish is by using a micro fibre cloth or a silver jewellery polishing cloth.
Acidic Skin PH Balances
High acidity levels in your skin may cause your skin to react with bronze or silver jewellery, this is due to the presence of sulfur/sulfides and amino acids in perspiration. The acidic nature of your sweat can cause discolouration to your skin and/to your jewellery. This may result in your skin turning green or black colour, which can be easily wiped off.
Cleaning your jewellery frequently should prevent this reaction. You can also apply a layer of clear nail polish on the inside of jewellery that irritates your skin, this will form a defensive barrier and prevent reaction to the alloy. Reaction to high acidity levels in your skin is not a manufacturing fault.
If you have sensitive skin and prone to allergic reactions you may find that 14k or 18k gold jewellery may be more suitable for your skin type.
18k GOLD VERMEIL
Gold Vermeil is a sterling silver base with a thick coating of 10k gold or above with at least 2.5 microns in thickness.
We use a sterling silver base with a thick layer of 3 microns of 18k gold for increased durability.
History of Gold Vermeil
Vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is a process of plating a fine layer of gold onto silver, it is also known as silver-gilt, a method refined by French artisans in the mid 18th century. Using a process called fire-gliding, which involved working with mercury was hazardous and often lead to blindness and other injuries, fire-gilding was eventually banned by the French government.
In the 19th century the process of plating metal known as Electroplating was developed by two English brothers George and Henry Elkington. Electroplating is a process that applies positive and negative charges to metals, causing them to bond together. This process is mercury free and is far safer than using the previous fire-gilding of bonding metals. With only a few minor adjustments and refinements to the original method, this process is widely used in the present day.
Vermeil is not only used to make luxury jewellery, it is also used to make trophies, medals, ornaments, high-end cutlery, tableware and home decorations. Pure gold is highly malleable, easily scratched, expensive and as heavy as lead. Vermeil is much more durable and lighter in weight than gold, which makes it ideal for producing large items.
Qualities of Gold Vermeil
If you like gold tone jewellery but have sensitive skin and prone to metal allergies, vermeil with a base metal of sterling silver has a high purity level than other base metals such as copper and brass, makes this the perfect choice if you want the look of gold at a fraction of the price of 14k or 18k gold.
To ensure that your vermeil jewellery lasts for many years to come, we recommend following our jewellery care guidelines. If the gold does eventually fade, we offer a re-plating service to restore the item back to its former glory. The plating is guaranteed for 2 years following our jewellery care guidelines.
Caring for Gold Vermeil
Clean gold vermeil jewellery with care to protect the layer of gold from being worn away or scratched, use a micro fibre cloth or a silver jewellery polishing cloth and gently buff to a sheen. Vermeil can tarnish or fade over time depending on exposure to extreme temperatures, humidity, sunlight, chemicals and other factors.
GOLD
Pure gold is too soft to be made into jewellery, it is alloyed with other metals to increase its durability.
14k Gold
14k gold contains 14 parts of gold and 10 parts consists of other metals.
In percentage terms 14k gold is equivalent to 58.3% pure gold, 41.7% is made up of other metals such as copper, zinc, silver, manganese, palladium.
Our 14k gold consists of 58.3% gold, alloyed with copper, silver and palladium.
18k Gold
18k gold contains 18 parts of gold and 6 parts consists of other metals.
In percentage terms 18k gold is equivalent to 75% pure gold, 25% is made up of other metals such as copper, zinc, silver, manganese, palladium.
Our 18k gold consists of 75% gold, alloyed with copper, silver and palladium.
History of Gold
The word gold comes from the Anglo-Saxon word “geolo” for yellow. The chemical element is Au derived from the Latin word for gold, “aurum” meaning “shining dawn”, a reference to its shiny lustre and bright yellow colour.
Gold is one of the oldest precious metals discovered by humans. Ancient and modern civilizations have always been fascinated with gold, a highly valued symbol of beauty, power, purity and accomplishment.
Flakes of gold were found in Paleolithic caves dating back as far as 40,000 B.C. In Ancient Egypt 3,000 B.C (5,000 years ago) gold was used to make jewellery, ornaments and to lavishly decorate tombs and temples. The pre-Columbian people of America called the metal “The sweat of the sun”; the Egyptians considered it as “The breath of god” and the Romans “The muscles of war”.
The first known civilizations to use gold as a currency, was the Kingdom of Lydia in West Turkey around 700 B.C. The Lydian merchants made coins out of stamped lumps of 63% gold and 27% silver known as “electrum.” Having a standardised unit of value made trading much more convenience and increased the prosperity of the Lydian merchants.
Gold today has a wide range of uses from creating jewellery, coins, bullion bars, in electronics, medicine, dentistry, cuisine, pigments, gilding, space technology and optics.
Qualities of Gold
Gold is one of the most useful metals on this earth, valued for its rarity, beauty and unique properties. With an attractive yellow colour, high lustre, resistance to corrosion and tarnishing, it is soft and malleable and can be drawn into wires, hammered into sheets or cast into shapes.
If you have sensitive skin and prone to metal allergies 14k or 18k gold jewellery would be highly recommended.
Caring for Gold
None of our 14k or 18k gold jewellery is plated, no need to re-plate white gold jewellery with rhodium, keeping maintenance low. Use a micro fibre cloth or a gold jewellery polishing cloth to gently buff to a sheen.
